THIS year is the 30th anniversary of Kenzo, the most profitable fashion house in the LVMH luxury goods group. With a turnover of more than Ff2,400m (GBP 250m), LVMH president, Bernard Arnault, wants it to become even bigger and more profitable.
LVMH bought Kenzo in 1993 from the creator, Japanese-born Kenzo Takada, who is still with his company today. The fashion house's numerous clothing and accessories ranges include Kenzo Homme, Kenzo Jeans, Kenzo Jungle, Kenzo Enfant, Kenzo Paris, Kenzo Accessories, Kenzo Maison, Kenzo Parfum, and Kenzo Lingerie.
The men's line represents about 35% to 40% of the company's sales, compared with the women's line which accounts for 55%, while the remainder is comprised of the homes and children's lines.
At 60, Kenzo, still oversees the creative side although there are now design studios for each line. He still plays a very important part in the company's image and is ever present at his fashion shows.
Arriving in France in 1965 at the age of 26, he set up his own label five years later, initially calling it Jungle Jap. He brought a more casual style to the rather restricted fashions of the times calling his unconstructed clothing "Couture Destructure".
It was not until 1983 that Kenzo entered the arena of men's fashion. He gave his suits the appearance of classical tailoring but the proportions were modified to give more comfort, and the colours and prints that he teamed with dark suits were livelier than anything else around. Then, two years ago, he launched the Extension line, a range of urban casual wear which is growing very fast.
Herve Martin is the Kenzo managing director who has been briefed to make the brand more global. Having worked at Cartier for seven years and then Louis Vuitton for three-and-a-half years, as head of European operations, Martin is no stranger to the development of brands be they fashion or luxury.
He says of the Kenzo label's current position that it is not yet a "reference name" "We already have a good men's business but we are still too dependent on too few countries France, Japan, and the UK," though these, he adds, are developing well.
One of his key objectives is to develop the retail side. There are 140 Kenzo shops in different corners of the world and there will be two new outlets per year plus a few franchises. Accessories have further to go, particularly on the men's side and the perfume business has to be developed, says Martin. A belt licence was signed last year and more fine-leather goods for men are being developed.
The leather goods licence has also been bought back from its licensee so that Martin can develop it at his own pace and he intends building up the footwear and accessories businesses.
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